Milking It

Let's talk milk pans. Yes, contrary to the presumptuous attitude of the ever-present espresso machine, some of us (myself, on occasion, included) still heat milk in a pan. You may not need to heat milk for a coffee: you may need it for a bechamal, for an ice cream custard, or for a bevy of other applications. For this, you need a dedicated milk pan. Yes...you do.

Firstly, I must mention that a Turkish coffee pot will do the job. It won't do it spectacularly, or with any kind of bells or whistles, but they do look kind of funky, and you can pretend you have a hubbly-bubbly out the back for after the milk-heating.

So, at the entry level of milk heating, we have the Raco milk pan. It has a very good non-stick surface, is stout and sturdy at 14cm diameter, features a comfortable cool-touch handle, and is (in my opinion...and I have one) a perfectly satisfactory little milk pan.

But the Anolon is just that little bit better. True, at 12cm diameter it is almost the same size as the Raco (did I mention the pouring lip? Both incorporate this handy feature), but I am completely enamoured with its fat bottom. Look at it: the shape is just luscious. It's almost squeezable. Also, it is anodised non-stick, inside and out. Does this make a difference, when the aim is to ensure the milk doesn't spill over the outside? Well, if appearance is important (and remember: I've just talked about how squeezeable the pan is), then yes, it does make a difference. Because the enamelling on the exterior of the Raco goes a bit dull after a while, whereas the Anolon stays spiffy and smart.

However, both live in the shadow of the king of the dairy warmers: the SKK Milkpan. Measuring up at a whopping 18cm diameter, with phenomenal dual pouring lips, this is milk-heating in luxury. It features a titanium non-stick surface inside and out, and has a thermocore base which is impervious to just about anything. It is completely indulgent to purchase this just to heat your milk: please, tell me you will use it for porridge as well. SKK pieces are not selected for their beauty, but for their utilitarian, practical designs which are unfailingly superior.

Obviously, it is quite an investment for something which is labelled a milk pan, but when you think of all the trouble the cow goes to in order for you to have your milk, it's not such a big price to pay...